How to check your home for asbestos (by yourself) before renovating

Homes built and/or renovated from 1930-1970 can contain asbestos materials.  Even though materials containing asbestos were not manufactured after the laws were updated in the 1970's, materials already produced and stockpiled were allowed to still be used in construction.  But why worry about the specific years of all the materials in your house?  Just test them and be 100% confident.

Asbestos can be in vinyl flooring (the tiles themselves) and/or the mastic used to glue them to the floor.  It can be used in the padding around hot pipes or as the insulation in attics.  It can also have been used in exterior siding, and mixed in paint and compound to create a textured look.  Honestly, it was a plentiful and cheap material, and possibly could have been mixed in and used anywhere in an old home.

Since we had a couple of ceilings and walls with texture/popcorn paint, we decided to get it tested before doing a project where we would scrape and sand it off the walls.  Since we would definitely be aerating it it makes perfect sense to just get it tested first.

If you don't want to hire a professional to come and test your house, the next best thing is to find a company you can send samples to for testing.

I have used this company before and I was very happy with the results:

https://www.slabinc.com/shop/asbestos/asbestos-test-kit/

They also have a combo asbestos/lead/mold testing kit which is very convenient.  If you are testing for asbestos, you likely have lead paint since it was used around the same time as asbestos in construction.  Best to get it tested all at once and save money on multiple test kits. 

When I sent samples away for testing, I sent a sample of vinyl tile I knew contained asbestos just to see what the results from the lab would say.  I knew the tile was asbestos tile based on pictures I matched online and from an asbestos removal company who tested it for me.  However, I was mainly worried about the mastic behind the tile, since that often contains asbestos as well and is more difficult to remove from flooring.  The remediation company didn't test the mastic since they treat it as thought it contains asbestos when removing it whether it tested positive or not.  

When you send samples away for testing, it is recommended to send several samples of the same material from different areas.  For example, when I was testing the vinyl tile and mastic, we sent in several samples from different areas of the floor.

The testing kit comes with instructions of how to collect a sample safely.  Mainly, you wear gloves, spray it with water before disturbing it, and you should also wear a mask that is rated for asbestos fibers.  Luckily for me, we had pieces of tile, paint and other materials that had already broken off that we could just collect and put in the bags.  We still used gloves/water/mask but didn't have to break off samples (and possibly create aerated fibers).

The asbestos kit looks like this:

Inside you will find a form to fill out.  You have to note where each sample was collected and then label the zip lock bags appropriately.

 

The samples in bag look like this:

When you purchase a test kit, you can select the turn around time for the testing.  They offer next-day, 1-day and five-day options.  

To get the results for your test, you will be given a log-in to their website.  From there you can look at the results.  One thing I really liked about this company is that they tested every layer of whatever we sent.  Below is an example of what the report looks like:

There was no extra fee for testing each layer of the sample. They have identified that the sample in the picture above does not contain any asbestos (see the highlighted yellow text above).  They have also identified that it does contain cellulose fiber and non-fibrous material.  Cellulose fiber is a construction material made from plant fibers and in not considered harmful for humans.  It is often used in insultation.

When you do have a sample that contains asbestos, the report looks like this:

I highlighted in yellow the results for the tile, which show it does have a small amount of asbestos chrysotile.  The mastic, which we had several samples tested, did not show as having any asbestos.  However, when we remediated the asbestos, we still had the mastic sealed in after the tile was removed.

I hope this post helps any who are hesitant to get their house tested.  The process is very smooth and does not take much time.  Also, no worries if your sample has several layers.  The testing company apparently will test all layers at no additional cost to you.

We did eventually get the asbestos tile in the basement remediated by a professional company.  That process will be described in a future post.

Complete Removal (rip-out), Expansion and Rebuild of Master Bath in a 1950's Cape Cod House

Our house is a Cape Cod house, so the bathrooms on the second floor are small and have sloped ceilings.  The master bedroom has an en suite bathroom, which in our area is an uncommon luxury.  In fact, most houses in our area only have 1 bathroom in the house--usually on the second floor.   So having a bathroom in the master bedroom, albeit small, is something we greatly appreciate.  Although 1950's construction was built to last forever (or ~70 years in our case), things have gone wrong.  For us, it was a leak in one of the pipes for this bathroom which we could not fix by going through the ceiling of the room below.  Additionally, we had mildew and peeling/chipping paint on the popcorn ceiling from poor ventilation (fan vents are not required in our area if the bathroom has a window so we bought this house without bathroom fan vents).  

We didn't just renovate the master bathroom.  We completely gutted it, changed where the fixtures were, and expanded it.  See the graphic below for a visual of how the layout changed and expanded.

The before pictures of the master bath are given below.  The bathroom door is awkwardly in the center of the bedroom wall.  This means large bedroom furniture cannot fit on either side of the bathroom door (i.e. bureau).  The bathroom door opens directly to the sink, which is right below a window.  This means that the mirror/medicine cabinet is not above the sink, but to the right of the sink (to use the mirror while using the sink means stepping to the side).

The shower is to the left of the door.  It has a sloped ceiling and lots of built up mildew on the popcorn ceiling.  If the ceiling wasn't textured, remediation of the mildew would be easy, but on a textured surface treating and repainting is very complicated (see above right photo).  The shower did have a nice custom glass door, but was also dark, small and foreboding (lower left photo).

To the right of the bathroom door was more peeling paint, mildew and sloped ceiling (top right photo).

On the right side of the skinny bathroom was the toilet (check out that vintage toilet!), mirror/medicine cabinet, light switches and radiator.

To renovate this bathroom, we started by completely ripping it out.  We hired people to rip out the two inch thick concrete on the walls, floors and ceiling.  They also removed the sink and toilet.  We paid for a dumpster to dump it all in.  It took two guys two weekends to rip out this bathroom, another bathroom we had downstairs, and remove other scrap wood we had in our basement and garage.  The total waste was about 6.5 tons.

The complete demolition is shown in the next two photos below.  The left part of the bathroom is shown first.  This is the side that had the built-in custom shower.

The photo below shows the right side of the bathroom.  That is the side that had the toilet, light switches and medicine cabinet.

The photo below shows the full dumpster.  It weighed about 6.5 tons, and had the concrete from two bathrooms and lots of scrap wood we had in the garage and basement thrown in.

Reconstruction of the bathroom included making it much larger.  The master bedroom had lots of space, so it really wasn't an issue to make the bathroom larger.  Also, the door was moved to be from the center of the wall to the right side.  This will allow a large piece of furniture to be placed on that wall now.

The photos below show the new frame of the larger bathroom and the position of the door now on the far right side of the wall.

When the construction was complete, the door on the right hand side of the wall opens to the toilet (see photos below).

The pedestal sink is now replaced with a double vanity.  The vanity sits against the wall towards the bedroom.  The shower is still against the same wall as before, but is much more open (see photo below).  The bathroom now has vanity lights above each sink.  Each vanity has a mirror and an outlet.  A ceiling fan was also installed, and it doubles as a light.  The bathroom now has all smooth walls without texture, which will be easy to maintain and update in the future.

The shower has a space behind it where the ceiling dips low.  This space can have shelves installed or can be used to hang additional towels (photo below right side of image).

This last photo shows the updated window.  Below the window we eventually put a wooden bench with a suede cushion.  The bench can be used while changing or to put clothes on while changing.

We hired a different contractor for the "deconstruction" and reconstruction of the bathroom.  The plumbing had to all be replaced, new electric outlets and lights run.  The radiator had to be moved to be under the window (not shown here).  In total the reconstruction part took about two weeks--but this was not the only project our contractor was working at the time.  Possibly it could have been done sooner if this was the only project.  This project was done during COVID lock down, so many materials were difficult to come by, this also impacted the timeline.

Installing a Bathroom Shower Curtain

 

How to Install a Bathroom Shower Curtain

Updating a bathroom doesn’t always require major renovation, sometimes, the smallest changes make the biggest difference. Installing a new shower curtain is one of the quickest, easiest upgrades you can do, and it instantly refreshes the space. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the steps I took to install a bathroom shower curtain in my home, along with some simple tips to make the process smooth and frustration‑free.

What You’ll Need

- Shower curtain

- Shower curtain liner (optional but recommended)

- Curtain rings / hooks

- Tension shower rod or mounted shower rod

- Measuring tape

- Step stool (if needed)

- Drill and bit 

- Painters Tape

- Level

- Pencil

Tension Rods vs. Mounted Rods

Tension Rods

What they are: Tension rods are adjustable rods that stay in place using internal spring pressure. They don’t require screws, drilling, or wall anchors.

How They Work: You twist the rod to extend it slightly wider than your shower opening.

When you place it between the two walls, the internal spring creates pressure that holds it in place.

Pros

- No drilling needed — perfect for renters or tile walls you don’t want to damage.

- Easy to install and remove (takes under a minute).

- Adjustable length, so it fits most spaces.

- Affordable and widely available.

Cons

- Can slip if not tightened properly or if the walls are glossy.

- Not ideal for very heavy shower curtains.

- Less sturdy compared to mounted rods.

Mounted Rods

What they are: Mounted rods attach to the wall using brackets and screws. They require basic tools to install.

How They Work: You mark the bracket positions on each wall. Drill holes, insert wall anchors, and screw in the brackets. The rod sits securely on the mounted supports.

Pros

- Very sturdy; won’t slip or fall.

- Best for heavy curtains or tension-weighted liners.

- More decorative options, curved rods, and premium finishes.

- Looks more permanent and polished.

Cons

- Requires drilling into walls (tile, drywall, or plaster).

- Not ideal for renters unless approved.

- Installation takes more time and tools.

Quick Summary

Feature	Tension Rod	Mounted Rod
Installation	No tools, no drilling	Requires drilling & screws
Stability	Medium	Very strong
Best For	Renters, temporary setups, lightweight curtains	Permanent setups, heavy curtains, curved designs
Wall Damage	None	Small screw holes
Adjustability	Fully adjustable	Fixed once installed

Installation

We opted for a mounted rod. It came in a kit with all the parts, stencils and necessary instructions to install it myself. It's important to know how high it needs to measure and identify the placement. 

Measure the Height & Placement: Decide where the rod will sit. Standard shower curtain height is typically based on installing the rod 72–74 inches from the floor, but your exact placement will depend on:

• The length of your curtain
• How far down you want it to hang
• Keeping the curtain inside the tub to prevent leaks

How to Measure Properly

• Measure your shower curtain’s total length.
• Subtract 1–2 inches for floor clearance.
• Mark that height on both walls.

For Example: If your curtain is 72", mount the rod around 73–74" from the floor.

As a personal preference, I had a higher floor clearance, I installed the rod so the curtain was about 5 inches above the floor. 

Mark the Bracket Locations: our kit came with a paper stencil that allowed me to ensure I drilled the holes in the right locations for the rod mount. I taped the stencil on one side, after i determined the height. I then used a level to place the second stencil on the other side of the bathtub; this will ensure the two sides will align horizontally.

Since I used a curve rod, the instructions made explicit notations to ensure you orient the curve correctly to allow the bulge to be pointed outward from the tub.

Drill the Holes. I was fortunate to only having to drill into drywall. So I used a standard wood/drywall bit. Drill slightly smaller than your wall anchors for a snug fit. Make the holes shallow enough to securely hold the anchors.

Slide each end into the brackets.

Since I am installing a curved rod, I had to ensure the curve faces outward from the shower/bathtub. Attach the rod in two sections if it’s a multi‑piece system.

Tighten the set screw (a small screw on the bracket that locks the rod in place).

Make sure both sides are level and the rod feels solid.

Install the shower curtains. Weave the material so it alternates along the rod. 

Done! Less than 30 minutes of work. 




 

What does it mean to own a home?

 

I suppose I should entitle this post: What does it mean to me to own a home?

My thoughts about home ownership have evolved since when I first started this blog many years ago.  Back when we first bought the house we were so young, had so much energy and were amazed at this complicated but wonderful house we now owned.  

A lot of life happens in people's homes.  It is a place where some of your happiest memories are made, and it can be a place where you experience great suffering, which can come in the form of illnesses, and grief.

I think in the early years I didn't really understand what home ownership meant.  You cannot just live in a house.  You have to constantly repair, replace, clean, update and upkeep.  I know we were doing that a great deal in the beginning, but we had a few years when we were busy with having kids, and forgot about it for awhile.  In that timeframe several things went wrong with the house.  We had major plumbing issues and we had issues on the external part of the house and the property.  

The hardest part with having these issues was being unprepared for it .  We should have known it could and would one day happen.  We should have been upkeeping things such that they didn't completely break down.  I don't know if being better prepared is something I should have known to do.  I would like to think I am just 'normal.'

The one redeeming quality in all this, is that my story isn't over.  I am still here in this house, and I have learned from my mistakes and will do better next time.

So what does it mean to own a home?

It means:

• You need to plan for more than just paying mortgage, taxes and utilities.  You need to financially plan for repairs and updates as part of home ownership.

• Constant and continuous upkeep to avoid larger expenses and repairs later.

• Learning how to do many things yourself, and also knowing when to admit projects are beyond your skill, knowledge and comfort level.

• Learning how to make connections, get recommendations, hire contractors, get bids, and have others do work on and in your home.

• Learn from your mistakes.  They are not mistakes, they are learning opportunities.

My thoughts on asbestos in the home when you renovate yourself

 Asbestos--despite being carcinogenic to human life--would have otherwise been a very useful building material.  I read somewhere that the ancient Greeks or Romans had asbestos napkins which they would throw into the fire to clean (the internet is not clear on whether it was the Greeks or the Romans).  The napkins would not burn and would come out clean and white.  It may be surprising to us now, but even the ancient Greeks & Romans noticed that the slaves who worked with this material would prematurely sicken and die.  Why did it take modern society so long to do anything about it?

In most homes today you will find asbestos in tile flooring, external house siding, joint compound, attic insulation, and maybe even insulation around hot pipes.  Before we started any project in our house, we often did check and worry about possible asbestos.  Every time I had to check for asbestos I would wonder: what were the people who built with this stuff thinking?  Why did they do it?  

I have two possible answers.  First, I think they used the asbestos material because it was what was mass marketed and mass produced at the time.  Second, I don't think there was much thought put into what would happen when home owners would eventually have to remove or replace these materials.  If there is any evidence that they thought what they built would last forever, all I have to do is look at my 1950's bathrooms, with 2 inch thick cement on the walls and floor.  And for the most part, if you do not disturb the asbestos materials, they are generally not considered to be immediately hazardous.

The most common asbestos material that you will still find in public buildings today are the asbestos floor tiles.  I know my elementary school had them in the whole building.  They were routinely buffed and polished and were shiny and clean, but were still asbestos tiles.  I have spotted asbestos tiles in my children's elementary school, and well as in older churches.  Any building built between 1930 and 1970 could have these tiles.  Older buildings which were renovated during that time period could have it, and even buildings built later, since builders could use excess asbestos stock even if they couldn't buy it.

There is so much history to asbestos which the current crop of homebuyers just do not know about.  My father, who is of an older generation, remembers quite well building with this material, and it being very popular.  When I was researching asbestos flooring a few years ago, I came across a copy of an old asbestos floor advertisement booklet.  Needless to say, I was floored!  But Seriously, when I first saw this booklet, I just couldn't believe it.  This terrible material, responsible for so much human suffering, is right there, in an sales ad!  Maybe this is how MY kids will feel when they see a cigarette ad in some historic archive.  See the full booklet I am referencing here: https://inspectapedia.com/hazmat/Armstrong-Asphalt-Floor-Tile-Catalog-1955.PDF

I found that booklet from this website, which you can go to for more asbestos ads and information: https://inspectapedia.com/hazmat/Armstrong_Tile_List_1951-59.php

If you don't want to check out the link yourself, I have copied a snippet of the front cover below:

Check out that playroom!  Haven't you always dreamed of playing in asbestos land?  But, honestly, I am really not sure what the appeal of that floor tile was many years ago.  I am not sure I would have installed it no matter how cheap it was.  It really is just hideous-looking.  

The sad reality is, there was a huge building boom in the U.S. during the prime asbestos years.  Those houses and structures are still in use.  Many of those structures are being renovated to modern materials and tastes.  But will the people doing those renovations know to check for asbestos?

The first step to checking for asbestos is knowing that you could potentially have it.  If you could have asbestos in the area you are renovating, just stop.  Get it checked out.  You can call a professional asbestos inspector, or you can send samples away to a test company yourself.  Or, if you are very curious and want to test out how good the inspector is you can call an inspector AND send your own samples to a third party to check.  I have done that myself.

You may not be concerned about your health in regards to asbestos, but you should be concerned for others.  The material you disturb can get on your clothes, and in the air and can impact people other than just you.  Do you want to bring home asbestos on your clothes and then wash it with your children's clothing?

You may not be aware, but most places have strict rules for disposing of asbestos containing materials.  It is unlikely you will be able to dispose of it yourself in the appropriate way.  All the more reason to contact a professional company.

If you turned to the internet to help you find information that supports whatever it is you were going to do anyway...  well, then I recommend you stop reading this blog post, and look elsewhere.  You will not find any stories here about how 'it will all be okay' if you just remediate it yourself.  I know this is a 'do it yourself' blog, which means likely the audience is on a budget, but this is something you shouldn't do yourself.  Part of being a homeowner is shouldering the financial burden of upkeeping your house.  When you own an older home, you have the additional responsibility of diligently and properly updating it.

Cleaning Car Headlights - Why Headlights Fog or Haze Over

Headlamps can become cloudy or fogged due to two main causes:

1. Oxidation of the plastic lens (most common). Most modern cars use polycarbonate plastic headlamp lenses, which are strong and lightweight but prone to oxidation. UV rays break down the clear coating that protects the plastic. Over time, the lens becomes dull, yellow, or milky.

2. Moisture buildup inside the headlamp. This happens when:

- Seals weaken with age

- Small cracks form

- Temperature changes cause condensation inside the housing

Impact on Driving Safety

Foggy or oxidized headlights can reduce light output by up to 50–80%, which can:

- Shorten nighttime visibility distance

- Reduce reaction time to hazards

- Increase glare for oncoming drivers

- Make the vehicle less visible during bad weather

This is why keeping your headlamps clear is essential for safe driving.

Step‑by‑Step Instructions to Clean a Fogged Headlamp

Using supplies commonly included in a car-cleaning kit: microfiber cloths, mild soap, rubbing compound/polish, masking tape, and UV protectant.

What You’ll Need

• From your typical cleaning kit:
• Microfiber cloths
• All‑purpose car soap or mild detergent
• Spray bottle with water
• Rubbing compound, polishing compound, or “headlight restoration compound”
• Masking tape
• UV sealant or protectant (often included with kits)
• Optional: Sandpaper sheets (e.g., 1000–3000 grit), only if included

Cleaning Process (External Oxidation)

• Wash the headlamp
• Mix mild soap and water.
• Clean the lens with a microfiber cloth to remove dirt and road grime.
• Rinse and dry completely.

• Protect the surrounding paint
• Use masking tape to cover the paint around the headlamp.
• This prevents accidental scuffing when polishing.

Apply rubbing compound or polish

• Put a small amount of compound on a microfiber cloth.
• Rub it onto the lens using firm, circular motions.
• Continue for 2–5 minutes per headlamp.
• Wipe clean and repeat as needed until the lens becomes clearer.

(Optional) Wet‑sanding (only if included and needed)

I

f the headlamp is severely oxidized:

• Spray water onto the lens.
• Sand gently with 1000–3000 grit sandpaper in back‑and‑forth motions.
• Keep the surface wet at all times.
• After sanding, use rubbing compound to polish the surface smooth.

Apply UV protectant

After clearing the oxidation, seal the lens so it doesn’t get cloudy again:

• Apply a UV sealant or headlight coating from your cleaning kit.
• Let it dry according to instructions.

This step is crucial — skipping it allows oxidation to return quickly.

Cleaning Moisture Inside the Headlamp

If fogging happens inside the housing, cleaning the outside won’t solve it.

Quick fixes:

• Remove the bulb and allow the housing to air out for several hours.
• Use silica gel packets inside the housing if accessible.

If moisture keeps returning:

• The headlamp seal likely needs repair or replacement.

Summary

Fogged headlights happen mainly from UV oxidation or internal moisture, and both significantly reduce nighttime visibility and driving safety. With basic supplies from a cleaning kit, you can restore clarity through washing, compounding, and applying UV protectant, or sand if necessary.

Before the Cleaning 

After the Cleaning 

Side by side comparison. 

Running a new water line for a Fridge

My fridge, which I am quite positive is older than I am, was on its last leg for some time and needed to be replaced. Not only does it feel great to finally upgrade an appliance in the kitchen, but it also saves on our electricity bill. Most new refrigerators are rated as Energy Star which means they are generally 20% more efficient than minimum federal standards. Don’t forget to write off your purchase on qualified Energy Star products when filing your taxes as well as submitting for local rebates and credits from your local electrical company. Three ways to save or get paid to upgrade my fridge, how can I say no to that?

My old fridge was a standalone fridge with no special perks that many new fridges now come standard with. No, I opted out of getting a fridge with a TV and WiFi capability. Call me old fashion, but I believe my fridge should store food and other basic nourishments.

The new fridge that I purchased has a hookup for water and an ice maker. To maximize the use of my fridge, I am going to have to run a water line from a cold water source to my fridge. I purchased a water hook-up kit which included copper tubing, a saddle valve, and a compression union. I had to
also purchase a second compression union, which I will use to extend the line from the basement to the connection inside the fridge. 

First thing I did was find a convenient location behind where the new fridge would be located to punch a hole in the wall. This is going to be a entry point to the first floor for the cooper line that I would be running from the basement. This would have to be a place that is out of the way and would not be an inconvenience should I decide to later move the fridge to another location. We do not have a nook or built in fixture for a fridge so we have a little more flexibility to where we can place our refrigerator.  We decided to keep it in the same location and have no intent in moving to any other place in the kitchen, or at least in the near future.

Once I made the opening in the wall, I drilled a hole going into the basement. It wasn't easy as I could not drill straight down but was forced to operator my drill at an angle. But the advantage is that it provided me a general location of where to drill up from within the basement. Initially, I tried to start drilling from the basement but as you can see in the picture below, my measurements were slightly off. I thought I had made my measurements correctly but they were apparently 5 or so inches off.
 

As you already know, we do not have a finished basement so it makes it easier for me to find a water line that is the closest to the fridge with easy access for modification. If you have a finished basement, you have to be a little more creative in gaining access to the floor directly underneath your kitchen.

I than took my saddle valve and placed it over the existing copper water pipe. All I had to do was screw in either side and the device, which the pressure created by the tightening of the screws, punctured the existing water line without ever having to shut off the water supply to any other place in the house. Ensure you have the saddle value in the off position or you have a slight mess to clean up.

Take a compression union and connect the cooper tubing to the saddle valve. I kept a few feet of copper tubing and tied it at the connection point. Never hurts to have some slack for the flexibility of moving the water line should I need to for a future project.

I placed a plastic junction box in the hole that I made in the kitchen and fed the copper tubing through it from the basement. I placed a coaxial cable face plate over the copper tuning.

Follow the instructions of your refrigerator to make the appropriate connections to the fridge itself. Once the connections are made, take another compression union and connect the water hose to the copper tubing.

Go back to the and turn on the saddle valve to allow water to flow through the new junction you created. Keep an eye on all the connections to ensure there are no leaks or breaks in the tubing. Finally, I am now ready to get a glass and taste the fresh, cold and filtered water from my new fridge.